2026-07-03 Nagano Suwa Taisha Travelogue (Part 2): Exploring Maemiya, Honmiya, and the Philosophy of Non-Contention#

As mentioned above, we originally planned to visit Shimosuwa and Kamisuwa over two days. However, seeing that it was still early after touring Shimosuwa, we took a taxi directly to Kamisuwa.

Kamisuwa (Kamisha) also has two shrines: Honmiya (Main Shrine) and Maemiya (Former Shrine). The taxi took us straight to Maemiya.

Maemiya: The Primal Call of Faith#

Maemiya is the true birthplace of the Suwa faith. Compared to the ornate architecture of Honmiya, Maemiya appears very rustic, exuding a primal natural energy at every turn.

Honmiya: The Historic Watch Without a Main Hall#

After touring Maemiya, we walked to Honmiya.

Honmiya is the oldest and highest-ranking of the four shrines of Suwa Taisha. Its most unique feature is that it has “no main hall”—because the shrine directly worships the mountain behind it, “Mount Moriya,” as the sacred body of the deity (Goshintai). It retains many precious structures donated during the era of Tokugawa Ieyasu, including a highly elegant wooden corridor over 70 meters long.

A Sigh at the Gate and a Favorable Turn#

We arrived at the entrance of Honmiya, but upon seeing the steepness of the stairs—especially the need to walk down—it was clearly beyond my wife’s physical capacity. She thoughtfully suggested that I go in and explore first while she waited where she was.

Walking alone past the torii gate, I discovered a long wooden corridor. Strolling along the path, I was surrounded by elegant wooden structures and towering trees.

At the time, I couldn’t help but think: What a graceful view, how wonderful it would be if my wife could set foot here and enjoy it too!

It was only after finishing the corridor that I suddenly realized this side was actually the shrine’s main entrance and approach (sando).

I immediately stepped out of the torii gate and luckily found a gently sloping path that perfectly led to where my wife was. I rushed back to rejoin her and guided her along this path to the main entrance, allowing her to stroll through this beautiful wooden corridor in the reverse direction!

A Local Shop Full of Warmth#

After our visit, we both felt a bit tired. There were no large shopping malls or chain stores in this area, but on our way, we had noticed a small shop, perfect for enjoying some afternoon tea and resting.

Rather than a store, its layout felt more like a cozy living room, with only two low tables inside. When we arrived, the owner and two customers were there, and their interaction was as friendly as old friends visiting. Although the owner didn’t understand English, she was very enthusiastic and made a great effort to communicate with us. Fortunately, with the help of a translation app, despite some minor communication hurdles, we managed to understand each other.

After having our tea and snacks, the owner’s daughter returned. She knew a couple of simple English phrases, but it was still far from fluent communication, so we once again chatted for a while using the translation app. During the conversation, I mentioned to them that my wife had some mobility issues.

Searching via Google Maps, we found that the nearest train station was Chino Station, so we asked them to call a taxi for us.

Friendly Tip: Although you can use the Go APP to hail a taxi in Japan, it often exceeds the service area in many rural regions. To call a local taxi by phone, Japanese is usually required, so relying on the help of locals is very necessary.

When the taxi arrived, the owner surprisingly stepped outside even faster than we did. At first, I didn’t quite understand her intention, but then I realized that because she knew my wife had mobility issues, she specifically went out early to help support her. Thus, with the owner on one side and me on the other, we supported my wife, allowing her to walk down the steps smoothly and safely.

Chino Station: A Distinctive Civic Center and Streets#

Saying goodbye to the warm little shop, we took the taxi to Chino Station.

The “Civic Center” building directly connected to Chino Station is incredibly distinctive. It shatters the stereotype of a traditional train station, perfectly blending modern aesthetics with community functions. The large-scale glass design allows sunlight to penetrate naturally, creating a great sense of space. It even integrates a library and an arts and culture space inside, turning the waiting time into an elegant experience.

Besides the amazing station architecture, the streets near the station are also very beautiful. Strolling outside the station, there is both the tranquil charm of a small Japanese town and a touch of modern elegance. The clean streets and well-arranged streetscapes made us feel exceptionally relaxed, adding a wonderful walking time to this Suwa trip.

Non-Contention (Xin Bu Jing): An Epiphany that Washes Away the Secular#

During our tour in Suwa, we saw the calligraphy for “Xin Bu Jing” (Heart not competing) several times, and it was also hanging in this cozy little shop.

Relaxed with bared belly in the warm riverside pavilion, Singing long as I gaze out over the wild plains. The water flows, my heart does not compete; The clouds linger, my thoughts are just as slow. In the quiet, spring is drawing to a close, Joyfully, all creatures care only for themselves. East of the river, bitter battles still rage, Turning my head, a single frown knits my brow.

—— “Riverside Pavilion” (Jiang Ting) by Du Fu

This poem was written by Du Fu while he was living in seclusion to escape the “An Lushan Rebellion.” The poem displays a strong contrast from beginning to end: The first half describes the poet’s seemingly aloof and leisurely state of mind, especially the line “The water flows, my heart does not compete,” expressing a realm of indifference to fame and fortune, with no desire to contend. However, the second half of the poem reveals a deep concern for his country and its people.

Japan has elevated many things into a “Dao” (Way), such as “Kado” (Flower Arrangement), “Sado” (Tea Ceremony), “Kendo” (Swordsmanship), and “Judo,” all of which emphasize a state of extreme focus and a mind free of hindrances. “Xin Bu Jing” is precisely a manifestation of this “Dao.” But at the same time, “Dao” is an internal cultivation, not a complete escape or ignorance of worldly affairs, which perfectly matches the realm conveyed in “Riverside Pavilion.”

The chief priest of Suwa Taisha wrote these three characters precisely to convey an attitude towards life to visiting worshippers—hoping that in this busy and highly comparative modern society, people can wash away their secular anxieties here and face life with a calm and unrippled “non-competing heart.”