2026-07-03 Travelogue of Suwa Taisha in Nagano (part 1): Exploring Akimiya, Harumiya, and Manji Stone Buddha#

Last December, I visited Izumo Taisha and learned of an interesting legend: it is said that Suwa Daimyojin was too massive to attend the gathering of the gods in Izumo in person, and could only participate remotely. Because of this wonderful connection, we made a special trip to Suwa in Nagano Prefecture this time to visit the land of this great deity in person.

Suwa Daimyojin and the “Remote Meeting”

On the morning of July 3rd, we departed from Matsumoto Station and took a local train to Shimosuwa Station. The Lower Shrine (Shimosha) of Suwa Taisha is divided into “Akimiya” (Autumn Shrine) and “Harumiya” (Spring Shrine). We decided to walk to Akimiya first.

Akimiya#

Akimiya features a massive Shimenawa (sacred rope) comparable to the one at Izumo Taisha. If you haven’t been to Izumo, this grand rope is certainly impressive enough. However, compared to the actual scale of Izumo Taisha, there is still a bit of a difference.

Most shrines in Japan have a hand-washing pavilion (Chozuya), representing the purification of body and mind before entering. Typically, cold water is provided here, but because Akimiya is close to a hot spring area, it offers warm water (Goshinyu), which is very unique.

The terrain leading to the shrine is slightly rugged, requiring some stair climbing. Fortunately, climbing stairs was relatively less of an issue for my wife, and she successfully completed this challenge.

Nakasendo Old Street#

After visiting Akimiya, we walked towards Harumiya. Interestingly, these two shrines are dedicated to the same deity, and a deity relocation ceremony (Senzasai) is held annually with the changing of the seasons. According to travel materials, the route from Akimiya to Harumiya passes through “Nakasendo Old Street,” which preserves many old wooden buildings and is quite worth a visit.

However, perhaps because we had already visited many similar traditional buildings before, we didn’t feel particularly amazed this time.

An Unplanned Small Museum#

On our way to Harumiya, we passed a small museum. Not only was admission free, but the staff inside (two elderly) were also very enthusiastic in explaining things to us. Although there was a language barrier, with the help of translation software, we were still able to communicate smoothly, which felt quite nice!

Harumiya#

The architectural layout of Harumiya is very similar to that of Akimiya, featuring the same solemn Kagura-den (sacred dance pavilion) and towering Onbashira (sacred pillars) surrounding it. Experiencing the sacred atmosphere of the two shrines welcoming the deity in different seasons is a very unique experience.

Onbashira Festival and Giant Tree Worship#

When visiting Suwa Taisha, one must mention its most famous “Onbashira Festival” (officially named Shikinen Zoei Onbashira Taisai). At the four corners of the shrine buildings in both Akimiya and Harumiya, you can see towering, massive sacred trees called “Onbashira.” This festival is held once every seven years (actually every six years, in the years of the Tiger and Monkey). Worshippers fell giant trees from the mountains and drag them all the way down the mountain and across rivers using pure human power, ultimately erecting them at the four corners of the shrines. This is not only the biggest event in the Suwa region but is also ranked as one of Japan’s three most bizarre festivals; the process is highly impactful and accompanied by danger. Looking at these magnificent Onbashira, it’s not hard to imagine the passion and fervor during the festival.

Manji Stone Buddha#

Not far from Harumiya, there is a “Manji Stone Buddha” with a very peculiar shape.

This stone Buddha was carved in the 3rd year of Manji during the Edo period (1660). Legend has it that a stonemason, intending to build a torii gate for Harumiya, originally planned to carve this giant stone. Unexpectedly, when he struck it with his chisel, the stone bled! Terrified, the stonemason stopped chiseling and, following the stone’s natural shape, carved it into a statue of Amitabha Buddha as an offering.

The Manji Stone Buddha has a disproportionately small head and a perfectly round, massive natural stone body. Its expression is serene with a touch of rustic cuteness. In modern times, it gained immense fame due to the high praise of the renowned artist Taro Okamoto.

Originally, the plan was to split Shimosuwa and Kamisuwa over two days. However, seeing that it was still early, we changed our plans and took a taxi to Kamisuwa after lunch. To be continued.