2026-07-02 Matsumoto City Stroll: Nawate-dori, Yohashira Shrine, and Matsumoto Castle#
On the morning of July 2nd, we left Karuizawa and set off for Matsumoto.
Although the straight-line distance between the two places isn’t far on the map, there is no direct high-speed train, so we had to travel to Nagano first and transfer. After nearly two hours of traveling, we arrived at 12:00 PM.
Since we had also visited Matsumoto last year, we decided to take a relaxing stroll through the city first and revisit some old spots. The goal of this city tour was the famous Matsumoto Castle. However, before arriving there, we followed the clear stream of the Metoba River and strolled past the adjacent “Nawate-dori” and “Yohashira Shrine”.
This street named “Nawate” was originally a long, thin embankment resembling a rope, sandwiched between the moat of Matsumoto Castle and the Metoba River. After Yohashira Shrine was built in the 12th year of the Meiji era (1879), this area increasingly prospered as an approach to the shrine. Walking through this pedestrian paradise where vehicles are completely prohibited, the route is filled with a strong Showa retro vibe. The streets are lined with unique small shops selling antiques, sundries, traditional snacks, and taiyaki, making it as lively as a festival every day.
A sign on the street named “Nawate and the Frog” caught my eye. It recorded that this place used to be filled with the sound of taiko drums and hawkers, and there were also the beautiful calls of “Kajika frogs” by the water. Although frogs once disappeared due to changing times and river pollution, the locals established the “Frog Daimyojin” as a spiritual symbol in the 47th year of the Showa era (1972). They cleverly used the Japanese pun of “frog (kaeru)” sounding the same as “return, change, and revive” to rebuild this area into a “Frog Street” praying for safe returns and beautiful environments. Eating snacks while looking for frog totems and stone carvings in every corner became a highlight full of vitality and human touch during our walk.
Continuing along this vibrant approach, we arrived at the center of Nawate-dori’s faith—“Yohashira Shrine”. This shrine is quite special in Japan because it enshrines four deities of extremely high status in Shintoism in one breath (Ame-no-Minakanushi-no-Kami, Takamimusubi-no-Kami, Kamimusubi-no-Kami, and Amaterasu-Omikami), which is where the name “Yohashira (Four Pillars)” comes from. Because it brings together the three deities of creation and the sun goddess, Yohashira Shrine is famous for its powerful matchmaking ability to “grant all wishes (negaigoto musubi no kami)”. Stepping from the bustling Nawate-dori through the shrine’s torii gate, the surrounding atmosphere instantly becomes solemn and tranquil. The huge green trees and solemn shrine buildings intertwine to create a soul-cleansing sense of peace.
After visiting Yohashira Shrine, we strolled through the city and finally arrived at the famous Matsumoto Castle. As a historical national treasure, Matsumoto Castle certainly has a profound heritage and beauty, but recalling our visit to Fukuyama Castle last December, although it was a building reconstructed by later generations, its exterior was so beautiful that I always felt it slightly overshadowed Matsumoto Castle! However, I also often remind myself: I shouldn’t reject or ignore other unique scenery right in front of me just because I’ve seen something excellent before.
Walking under the intense summer heat until past 3 PM was just too hot. We both felt physically exhausted, so we finally decided to return to the hotel first to rest and escape the heat.